Jean making our lunchtime purchases
The busy Uzes street on market day
Is there anything nicer than waking up on a Sunday morning to the sound of gentle rain on the roof, with the knowledge that you are not required to be anywhere, do anything particular or account to anyone for your actions. This morning was just such a day and I have to confess that it was hovering dangerously close to 9am before I got my "B" into "G" and got the coffee on the go.
Yesterday was a very full day, and with map in hand and a full tank of fuel, we drove north towards Ledignan, but veered off east and headed for Uzes. So many people had told us about the wonders of the Uzes market, but had also warned us of the horrors of parking. I think they might have oversold us on the first point, but were definitely right about the second.
Unlike Sommieres where the entire town centre is sealed off to traffic, and pedestrians are free to meander among the myriad stalls, Uzes keep the roads open, and visitors dice with traffic, undecided shoppers who continually pause with their roll-along shopping bags, and the clientele of the busy coffee shops who spill out onto the already full pavements.
We noted that a large number of stalls were dedicated to the sale of clothes, rather like the Lunel market, but we only found a couple of decent bread stalls and very little else by way of food apart from a number of dried sausage stands and some good herbs and spice vendors. At least Lunel has the fabulous plant market and of course it also boasts the best sacristans in the vicinity, but I think that Sommieres is winning our "best market" award for the time being.
We didn't find sacristans, but there was a most amiable lady selling fougasse, and having already been waylaid by another amiable lady selling caramel coated peanuts, we were fairly well insured against going too mad on the food shopping. The plan had been for a picnic to go with our coffee, but in the end, we drove north once more and found ourselves high above the valley floor in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains where we drank hot coffee and nibbled the last of the fougasse. All around us, we could see the bright orange jackets of hunters perched on rocks and behind bushes waiting for a rabbit who wasn't concentrating, but as the hands on my watch reached midday, there was a mad rush as every hunter raced down the hill to his vehicle and hurtled off down the road for lunch.
It was quite strange to see how quickly both the countryside and the architecture changed as we entered this new region. Great outcrops of rock often bore the ruins of some fortress that had been built in a dizzying fashion, and I couldn't help but feel that there had to be the remains of more than one of the workmen scattered among the rocks hundreds of feet below. The sunshine that had shone on us down in the valley was fast giving way to a layer of cloud moving up from the coast, and with the visibility failing, we decided to cut short our extended tour, and having meandered through the Gardon valley above Ales, we joined the main route and headed south for Ledignan.
The villages in this region looked more Swiss than French, and tight knit cottages clearly built for the coal miners in region looked as tough and rugged as the men who had inhabited them. But the great wheel at the pit head stood still and the glass from the windows of the old buildings had long ago fallen out and there was an abandoned air about the place. Maybe with the ever-increasing cost of oil, these coal mines will return to life and the villages will once again echo to the ring of miners boots.
We got home in time for a sustaining glass of wine before getting tidied up and going to the Salle Polyvalente which pretty much means "all purpose hall". The Mayor and village officials had organised a welcome evening for the newcomers and after a brief presentation on what the village had to offer, there was time for a chat, a glass of wine and some rather nice sausage meat baked in pastry. When we commented on the extent of the turnout, the Mayor shrugged and said "Where there is free wine, there are people".
We were happy to meet up with a young couple, she from England and he from France, with two delightful little boys who were completely bi-lingual. How I envied the way they could switch back and forth without even thinking about it. The boys are just about school-going age so won't need to benefit from the free creche which is run in the village for the children of parents who have to commute to Montpellier for work. However, they might soon join the other youngsters at the large new football stadium, or the music school or the drama academy or in the growing library while being educated at the fast growing school. Meantime, we could join the gym, the walking club, the theatrical society, the historical society and the tennis club, and prepare to enjoy the festive offerings by way of bull running, the 14th July celebrations and the annual concerts at the local quarry.
We got back home in time for me to watch Henry VIII wrecking his first marriage in order to wreck his second, and since I knew the end of the story, I settled for half an hour of easy-going British comedy and then tumbled into bed.
Do you wonder that we are happy to have a Soporific Sunday!